Now, acetone might be all well and good for thinning epoxy BEFORE it has cured, but best of luck to you if you are attempting to use acetone to clean off a surface that has already been treated with hardened epoxy. Epoxy is tough. That’s why you coated whatever you’re working on in the first place.

It may be that allowing the acetone to soak in/on the coated wood or surface for an extended period of time can make the epoxy a little more malleable, but the results might not be all that you are hoping for, or all that other sources might have led you to believe. There is a particularly unhelpful article on ehow.com, for instance, that makes it sound like a real piece of cake to remove cured epoxy resin.

In my experience, a product like acetone can be a great complementary item to have on hand when attempting to get rid of unwanted epoxy. First and foremost, though, what you are going to want is heat, and a lot of it. Remember when you were first applying the epoxy in question, and it became very warm while it was curing? Well, at the time, the epoxy was also very workable. And that’s the condition that you need to help the epoxy resin return to if you ever hope to ‘work’ with it again.

Buy or borrow a heat gun. You’ll have your best chances of success if you heed this advice. Soak the wood in acetone beforehand, give it a couple of hours to soak in, and than blast your surface with heat for what seems like forever. Slowly, the epoxy will begin to soften up. When I said that you’d be able to ‘work’ with it again earlier, that was a bit of an exaggeration. We’re really just telling you how to remove epoxy, and it isn’t easy. Even taking the two main steps outlined in this article, you’re going to be gouging and clawing at that epoxy garage floor, or whatever you’re working on. Take heart though, it can be done, and with great results. Just don’t go into the project thinking it’s going to be a walk in the park.

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To begin with, we’re going to assume that your current surface is concrete. Now, what kind of things should you consider? Well, for one, give some thought to how long the concrete has been down. If it was poured within the last month, hold off for now. The concrete will continue to emit water vapor for quite some time, and laying down a coat of epoxy paint will not be successful during this state of concrete curing.

Now, for most of you, the concrete has been down for quite some time, and we can move forward. So, how to go about getting that kitchen counter look that you see in magazines and on TV of that professional looking garage is a question worth exploring. Epoxy, we need to remember, needs something to grab on to. For those of you that have never applied any type of coating to your garage floor, no problem. Give it a good cleaning, and get to work.

However, a lot of folks have previously applied paint on their garage floors, and if you fall into that camp, there are a couple of steps you’re going to want to take prior to application. The big thing you’re going to need to do, unfortunately, is get rid of that old paint, or at the least, rough it up enough so that the epoxy paint can grab on to something. You might be able to get away with just a big old belt sander, but a lot of people have success by renting a diamond blade angle grinder with a vacuum attachment. It’s not going to be fun, but this is what it will take to get the look you’re going for with your epoxy garage floor.

Once you’ve prepped your surface, there’s only one other big tip that you’ll need to consider before undertaking the creation of the epoxy garage floor coating of your dreams: Start small! Mix small batches of epoxy and get comfortable with the product. Believe me, you’ll be a lot happier mixing smaller batches and taking a little bit more time than you will if you go big and have a big bucket of smoking epoxy – it gets hot!

So, these are a few thoughts to keep in mind. Best of luck with your project, and don’t hesitate to send in pictures. We’d love to post some great results from our readers!

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At the outset, I began by asking all of my woodworker buddies which glue they would use if they were constructing a relatively complex table out of pine. For the most part, the most popular choice for best wood glue is Titebond II or Titebond III, and it’s easy to see why. It is very easy to use, and it provides exceptional strength. There may not be a perfect wood glue, but most would agree  that Titebond products come pretty close. Other suggestions here included Yellow Glue, and Gorilla Glue. Gorilla should probably be discounted a little bit, as it came from the most amateur of the builders, and in this author’s opinion, simply isn’t a great product.

Of course, we are an epoxy blog, and for that reason, we favor two part glues for their unsurpassed strength and durability. Additionally, epoxies offer a number of different consistencies and styles to fit just about any project, and can be modified to suit a specific purpose. Maybe I’m biased, but I can’t help but include a two part epoxy such as System Three’s General Purpose, as mentioned in our thread on doming resin, when we talk about the best wood glues.

So, hey, if you thought we were going to conclude with the number 1 wood glue, you’re probably a bit disappointed, but that’s kind of the way things go… more often than not, there isn’t a best of anything 100% of the time. Finding the best wood glue for your project should first involve a thorough evaluation of your specific project, and an honest appraisal of your preferences.

What we have done here is offer up a selection of products that are tough to go wrong with – the Titebond glues are great, you’ll have a hard time going wrong here. Yellow glue is also fantastic, and has a deserved cult-like following. If you’re looking at epoxy, and trying to find a winner in that category, System Three makes the best products for my money. Hope this helps, best of luck in your hunt for your ideal wood glue.

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Where there’s a will, there’s a way. Not only are ranks of artists increasing, the new additions seem to have brought with them a new flair for doing things in ways not before seen. Without  much further ado, we’ll move on to the topic of this post: Doming resin.

Doming resins are basically just epoxy, but there are some important things to consider before you choose one that is appropriate for your project, and there are some helpful tips that we’ll share with you to help you as your work with this medium.

Now, as mentioned, doming resin is just epoxy. But what should you be looking for as you collect your supplies for your next great project? Well, as you may know, the defining property of epoxy is that it consists of two parts, that when mixed, form an incredibly strong compound. And, as we discussed in our piece about epoxy spray paint, the amount of time it takes to cure is a very important item of information.

Before you begin working with doming resin, you need to ask yourself how much time you need before the epoxy becomes “unworkable,” that is, before it cures into a state that can no longer be manipulated. This is all determined by the hardener, which is often referred to as the “Part B.”

Epoxies can be found that cure in as little as 5 minutes, or as much as several hours. Furthermore, you can influence how long it takes by altering the temperature in your working environment. If you want to speed things up, turn up the thermostat. If you’d like to maximize your working time, do your work in the coldest temperature that you can stand.

If you’re looking for a great all-purpose doming resin epoxy I usually recommend System Three’s General Purpose Resin. It’s top quality, and their customer service reps are as friendly as they come.

Related posts:

1. How to Pick the Best Wood Glue
2. What You Should Know About Epoxy Spray Paint

The thing is, epoxy must be mixed prior to application. You can’t exactly have a true epoxy paint in an aerosol can and expect anything to come out after more than a few minutes. The epoxy would cure in the can, and you’d be stuck with cylindrical paper weight.

So, what has happened recently, and what do you need to be aware of? Well, technology has progressed, as tends to happen, and we now have a number of aerosol cans that handle mixing just prior to spraying. Rust-oluem’s new spray includes a can with a rather ingenious method to mix the resin with the hardener. Releasing the hardener into the resin/paint is handled via a plunger that one inserts into a narrow tube at the base of the can. Now, as you might expect, you can’t exactly spray a little bit, put the can on a shelf in the garage, and come back out the following weekend to finish your painting project. But that’s a good thing. Once the hardener is released, the paint begins to cure, which is one of our definitive characteristics of all epoxies.

There is also a product from Rubber-Seal available, though I can’t provide as much commentary on this one, as it is a paint that I have yet to try. But, in the end, there is one thing that you need to remember first and foremost before making any kind of epoxy spray paint purchase. When you’re in the store shopping, look at the can and pay special attention for an indication that there are two parts within that require mixing. Because as we discussed in “What is Epoxy?,” epoxy is a two part compound that cures when mixed together. A plunger, like you’ll find on the Rust-oleum can, or some other apparatus should be visible that will be your hint that the product in your hands is an actual epoxy, and not just a large company praying on overly-trusting consumers.

You’re going to want a good quality, actual epoxy for use on your home. If you have insurance with a company such as Aviva, you probably understand the importance of looking after your home. Make sure you are extra careful when buying epoxy, so you don’t end up with an imitation.

Related posts:

1. Choosing the Best Doming Resin for Your Project

Lucky for all of us, and contrary to some beliefs, polyamine is legal outside of Utah, which allows all of us to enjoy the benefits of epoxy. So, what is epoxy? The important thing to know is that epoxies are two-part polymers. That is, by definition, epoxy must be composed of two parts that are mixed together. It can be a glue, paint, putty, etc. In each case, a true epoxy will have both a “resin” and a “hardener,” and that is the first and most important thing to note.

Now, for those of you interested in the historical side of things, epoxy was first formulated in the 1920s and 30s by a Swiss chemist, Dr. Pierre Castan, and an American, Dr. S.O. Greenlee. Naturally, their discoveries went on to be licensed by major corporations, and little else was heard from these fine scientists.

The many uses, of course, are what we associate with epoxy today. From coating a concrete garage floor, to refinishing the bright work on a sailboat, epoxy has become a near and dear tool for many craftsman. First and foremost, epoxy is thought of as an adhesive, and for good reason. Once epoxy cures, there is simply nothing better for the job. A common demonstration that comes to mind is one in which two boards are epoxied together and given time to cure. Afterwards, the boards are attached to large machines attempting to rip them apart and thereby test the strength of the epoxy. Of course, what ends up being revealed are weaknesses in the wood itself, as it splinters and tears, leaving the epoxy bond intact.

But beyond it’s adhesive properties, it has been well established that epoxy also has an incredible ability to waterproof. It would be a not inconsiderable challenge to find any wooden boat still on the water that does not have some epoxy on board. As you might imagine, epoxy makes for one of the best wood glues, and is the ideal solution for boat builders looking to build or repair a wooden boat. Unbeatable ‘stickiness’ plus waterproofing is just an irresistible combination. It should be mentioned that UV exposure can, over time, weaken epoxy, but that can be counteracted, and we will save that for a later post.

Answer the question of “what is epoxy” in recent years has become more difficult. Today, people are constantly finding new uses for epoxy. From painting their decks and sheds, to painting large pieces of art, epoxy is finding it’s way into new and diverse venues all the time. Even toothbrushes are getting in on the act – In fact, each Sonicare toothbrush has epoxy surrounding the electronic components in the handle to protect against damage in the event of a fall. Or maybe that’s just so we can’t fix them when they do break…

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